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Are protein treatments the secret to stronger hair? Experts explain...
Everything you need to know before investing in them
Whether bleaching or straightening, washing too often or brushing too roughly, most of us are guilty of doing at least one thing that is compromising the health of our hair. Even if you are not actively doing so, environmental aggressors can cause damage to the strands. While a traditional hair mask remains the shortcut to a swishier mane, when your hair fibre is more than just a little thirsty, it pays to up the reparative action and invest in a protein treatment.
Your hair really needs two things in order to look its very best: moisture and protein. While the hair masks of old largely focused on the former, there’s now a host of treatments out there that tackle the latter, working to strengthen and repair strands that have been put through the wringer.
Protein vs moisture
But which should you invest in? Chances are, you’ll benefit from both. As hair needs moisture and protein to stay strong, the best move is to stick a formula that ticks each box on your shelf, alternating applications accordingly.
As Helen Reavey, trichologist and founder of Act + Acre explains, “the key difference between protein and moisture-based hair treatments is that they were created to address different needs. Moisture-based treatments are designed to hydrate and add moisture back into the hair, ultimately improving elasticity and reducing the chance of breakage. Protein-based treatments are formulated to strengthen by adding protein onto the hair shaft, creating a protective barrier around the strand.”
While the most potent protein treatments are best reserved for use in-salon (if you see a stylist for colour, they’ll likely recommend one to you), there are now a host of supporting formulas on the market for using at home.
If you’re struggling with dry, damaged hair, it can sometimes be difficult to determine whether you need a protein treatment or moisture mask. Reavey breaks it down: “typically, if you’re dealing with dryness, frizz, or overall lack of elasticity, you should opt for a moisture-based treatment,” she says, explaining that “these products will restore hydration to the hair shaft and replenish its moisture levels, making the hair feel softer and smoother.”
As for protein treatments, you could benefit from adding one in if you’re seeing “an increased amount of breakage, split ends, and a brittle feeling,” adds Reavey. “A protein treatment will work to strengthen and restore the hair, lessening the chance of further breakage and split ends. Additionally, if you’re experiencing extreme heat damage, protein treatments do a great job of repairing that damage.”
A simple way to work out which your hair needs is to gently pull a single strand of your hair. If it snaps without stretching, you need moisture. But if it stretches too readily and feels akin to chewing gum, you’ll benefit from protein.
Reavey’s only caveat? “I would stay away from using too many products with protein to avoid protein overload, as this can actually further damage the hair,” she warns. As at-home protein treatments are generally less potent than those used in salon, most people can benefit from using one every fortnight, then balancing those applications with a moisture mask on alternative weeks.
How do protein treatments work?
Understanding how a moisture mask works is easy: these rich formulas are packed with humectant and emollient ingredients that add hydration and smooth the surface of each strand, making it feel instantly softer. Protein works differently. In short, your hair is made up of chains of amino acids, the building blocks of protein. When hair is treated with heat or chemicals, these amino acid bonds are put under strain and can break. A protein treatment fills the gaps in roughed-up cuticles, helping them to maintain their strength without snapping.
Ahead, the best protein treatments to keep on rotation:
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